Dusi Wines Score Big with Vinous
Janell Dusi of J Dusi Wines has an intimate knowledge of her vineyard and Paso Robles. She was born and raised amongst the vines in a family of farmers and vine growers. The Dusi Vineyards are renowned, not just in Paso but throughout the world. One of their earliest and long-standing customers, Ridge Vineyards, has been sourcing fruit from them since the mid-seventies to make their Zinfandel Dusi Ranch. The vineyards, in the Templeton Gap District, run parallel to Highway 101, and were planted in the 1920s, with another parcel across the highway planted in 1945. These dry-farmed bush vines resemble small trees and produce some of the most sought-after Zinfandels in the region. Janell Dusi takes about 20% of the production for her portfolio, a major standout at last year's tasting that prompted me to visit again on this trip. The J Dusi wines marry the power and richness of old-vine Zinfandel with energy and verve. They are classy and balanced, relying more on complexity than alcohol to add volume. Also of note are the J Dusi Wines - Paper Street wines, sourced from a family vineyard planted in 2013 by Dusi’s father within the Willow Creek district. They provide a lovely comparison of terroir when tasted against their Dusi Vineyard counterparts.
scores + reviews
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2021 The Don
93 POINTS
A pretty blend of stone dust and dried flowers gives way to red currants and sage as the 2021 The Don slowly evolves in the glass. This is sleek and racy in style, with elegant waves of ripe red and black fruits that coast across a stream of fresh acidity. Sweet tannins slowly saturate but don't get in the way. The 2021 finishes structured yet fresh with a tinge of salted licorice. The Don is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese refined in 15% new oak.
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2032
Eric Guido, June 2024
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2021 Gazzaroli Zinfandel
92+ POINTS
The 2021 Zinfandel Gazzaroli marries richness with power. A cascade of rum-soaked cherries and wild blueberries comes together with ground cloves and cinnamon-dusted currants. It's supple and round, with a mass of ripe red and black fruits neatly contrasted by a blood orange and spice tinge. Tangerine adds a lovely counterbalance as the 2021 finishes with a gentle inner tension, sweet tannins and a juicy core. The Gazzaroli is an equal parts blend of the Danti Dusi and Benito Dusi Ranch Vineyards.
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2031
Eric Guido, June 2024
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2022 Zinfandel Dante Dusi Vineyard
93 POINTS
The 2022 Zinfandel Dante Dusi Vineyard is vibrant and lifted, enticing the senses with blue and purple-toned flowers accentuating crushed raspberries complemented and clove. This flows across the palate with textures of pure silk, blending elegance with energy. Violet pastille gives way to tart wild berry fruits. Rum raisin and cinnamon spice nuances linger as this finishes with dramatic length yet pleasantly fresh. The 2022 is beautifully refined, especially for the warm vintage.
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2032
Eric Guido, June 2024
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2021 Fiorento
94 POINTS
A deep, glass-staining purple color, the 2021 Fiorento opens with a burst of mentholated herbs and vanilla, giving way to crushed blackberries and baking spices. This is juicy and round while maintaining a sense of refinement. Violet-laced red and blue fruits swirl across a stream of brisk acidity. The Fiorento maintains fantastic energy throughout, tapering off with a crunch of minerality and licorice notes that resonate. This is an expertly balanced blend of 42% Zinfandel, 29% Petite Sirah and 29% Carignane.
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2034
Eric Guido, June 2024
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